Blown-In Insulation in Cincinnati, OH

Blown-in insulation is how most Cincinnati attics reach their target R-value. Loose cellulose or fiberglass is blown through a hose to an even depth over the attic floor, filling around joists, wiring and odd framing that batts cannot cover neatly. It costs less per square foot than spray foam, and on a wide, open attic floor it reaches a deep R-value for a fraction of the price. The catch is that loose fill does not stop air. That is why we seal the leaks in the attic floor first and then blow insulation over them.

Cellulose or fiberglass

Cellulose is made mostly from recycled paper treated for fire and pests. It is dense, fills gaps well and slows air movement somewhat better than loose fiberglass. Fiberglass loose fill is lighter, does not absorb water as readily and settles less over time. Both work. HomeGuide and Fixr publish similar per-square-foot ranges for each, and the choice usually comes down to the attic, any moisture concerns and your preference. We explain why we lean one way for your house.

How deep is deep enough

The Residential Code of Ohio lists R-49 for ceilings in Zone 4A, which covers Hamilton and Clermont counties, and in Zone 5A, which covers Butler and Warren. For existing attics in either zone, the Department of Energy recommends reaching R-60 in an empty attic or adding R-49 where 3 to 4 inches already sit. Northern Kentucky's code lists R-38. Blown-in reaches those values at a depth that depends on the material, and we mark the target depth with rulers in the attic so you can see what you paid for.

Dense-pack for walls

The same materials, blown at much higher density, fill closed wall cavities in older homes. Dense-packing through small holes keeps the material from settling and slows air through the wall. It is a common way to insulate the empty walls of pre-war Cincinnati frame houses without tearing out plaster.

What goes in before the blower

Before any loose fill goes in, we seal the top plates, chases and penetrations, weatherstrip and insulate the hatch, install baffles at the eaves to keep the soffit vents open, and build dams around chimneys and any light fixtures that need clearance. Old knob-and-tube wiring must be checked by an electrician before insulation covers it. Skipping these steps is the most common reason a new attic job disappoints.

Over old insulation or after removal

If the existing insulation is dry and reasonably clean, new fill can go right on top after sealing. If it is wet, moldy, contaminated by animals, or might be vermiculite, it should come out first. We tell you which case you are in after seeing the attic.

Tell us about the attic or the walls you want insulated. We will measure, look for leaks and give you a written price. Get a free estimate