Frequently Asked Questions

It costs more per square foot than fiberglass or cellulose, the household needs to stay out while it cures (HomeGuide says 24 hours or more), and it is hard to remove once applied. If it goes over a hidden leak or bad wiring, it can hide the problem. Those are the reasons we inspect first and only use foam where it earns its cost.

The Residential Code of Ohio lists R-49 for ceilings in both Zone 4A (Hamilton and Clermont counties) and Zone 5A (Butler and Warren). For an existing attic, the Department of Energy recommends R-60 if it has no insulation or adding R-49 if it has 3 to 4 inches. In Northern Kentucky, the state's 2009 IECC-based code lists R-38 for ceilings.

Closed-cell is usually the right foam on crawl space and basement walls, because it slows water vapor and does not absorb water. Open-cell lets vapor through, which can cause trouble against cool, damp masonry in a humid Ohio summer.

National guides are the honest starting point: HomeGuide lists $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot installed and a typical minimum of $1,000 to $2,000 or more. Your price depends on the spaces, the foam, the thickness and the prep. We give you a written estimate after we see the house.

Sometimes, but solid brick walls need care, because foam on the inside of the masonry can change how the wall dries. We look at how the wall is built before we recommend foam, dense-pack fill or leaving it alone and sealing elsewhere.

Yes, for the area being sprayed and usually the whole house. HomeGuide advises staying out for 24 hours or more. We ventilate during and after the work and tell you when the space is ready.

For crawl space and basement walls, rim joists and roof decks without an attic, usually yes, because it slows vapor and packs more R-value into each inch. In interior walls or open above-grade cavities, open-cell often does the job for less. Where either would work, we price both.

Several chemical companies make professional two-part foam systems, and installers buy from them through distributors. What matters more for your house is which type is used (open or closed cell), the thickness, and whether the surface was prepared and the temperature was right when it was sprayed.

No. Closed-cell foam resists water and slows vapor, but it is not waterproofing and will not stop a leak through a roof, wall or foundation. Leaks get fixed before any foam goes on.

A tighter house is the goal, but fuel-burning appliances still need combustion air and the house still needs ventilation. We look at the furnace, water heater and bath fans and tell you if anything should be checked by an HVAC contractor.

There is an odor during spraying and curing, which is why the household stays out for 24 hours or more as HomeGuide advises and why we ventilate the space. Once cured, foam should not keep smelling; tell us if it does.

Often yes, if the old insulation is dry and clean. We seal the leaks underneath first, then blow new insulation over it. If the old material is wet, moldy, full of droppings or may be vermiculite, it should be dealt with first.

Not on a typical vented attic floor. Sealing the leaks and blowing in loose fill gets similar results for less. Foam makes more sense under the roof deck for vaulted ceilings or attics holding ductwork and equipment.

It usually helps, especially when combined with air sealing and sealing any ducts in the attic. Rooms with knee walls or a ceiling that follows the roof may need those surfaces treated as well.

Most single-family attics take a day, sometimes less. Larger attics, heavy sealing work or old insulation removal can add time.

In most Cincinnati houses, the walls, after sealing the vents and laying a vapor barrier. Floor batts in a vented, humid crawl space tend to absorb moisture and fall. Floors make sense when the space below has to stay open, like a porch or pier addition.

Usually because warm, humid outdoor air enters through vents and its moisture condenses on cooler surfaces. Sealing the vents, laying a vapor barrier and insulating the walls keeps that air out.

Yes, as long as the wall is not actively leaking. Closed-cell slows vapor, so the block does not wet the insulation. If water is coming through, drainage is fixed first.

It is still worth it. The rim lets in outside air even when the basement is not finished, and that air cools the floors above and adds humidity in summer.

Yes. Dense-pack fill goes in through small holes drilled from inside or outside, which are then patched. Foam needs open walls, so it is used during remodels.

It depends on the wall. Dense-pack cellulose is the common choice for closed frame walls in older homes because it fills well and lets the wall dry. We explain the options for your specific walls.

Often not from the inside. Solid masonry needs to dry, and interior insulation can make it colder and wetter in winter. Sealing leaks and insulating the attic and basement are usually the safer investments for those houses.

Cold walls, drafty outlets and a bare cavity behind an outlet cover are clues. We can check at outlets or small inspection holes during the visit.

Cellulose settles some after installation, which is accounted for by blowing to a greater initial depth. Fiberglass loose fill settles less. Dense-packed wall insulation is installed tight enough to resist settling.

In most attics, yes, because it fills around joists, wires and odd framing without gaps. Batts can perform well when installed perfectly, but attics rarely allow that.

If the old insulation is dry and not contaminated, yes, after the leaks are sealed. Wet, moldy or animal-soiled insulation should be removed first.

A typical attic takes a few hours to a day including air sealing. Walls take longer because of drilling and patching.

Not if it is dry and clean. New insulation can go on top after sealing. Removal is for insulation that is wet, moldy, soiled by animals or in the way of necessary sealing.

A vacuum system keeps most of the mess contained, with the hose running outside to a collection unit. We cover the path through the house and clean up after.

Leave it alone. EPA guidance says to assume vermiculite contains asbestos, not to disturb it, and to hire a professional asbestos contractor before remodeling. We stop work in that attic until it has been dealt with.

Yes, but it is slow work, cut or scraped off by hand, which is why it costs more per square foot than loose fill. HomeGuide and Fixr both publish ranges for it.